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Today we reached camp two of the Abruzzi Spur, and we were quite fast. Adriano took 3 ½ hours to climb from base camp to c1, I 3 hours and 55. We have adopted slightly different strategies to acclimatise: Sergio stopped at c2 to spend the night and get directly to the bc tomorrow. Adrian and I, instead, we went back to sleep to c1 and tomorrow we go back to c2 and stop. Many people are climbing today to c2, George with a friend and two porters, Leila with a carrier and two Koreans (I am sorry, but I have not yet learned the names).
Ralf and Gerlinde had planned to reach the c1 of Cesen and maybe c2.
If life in base camp is anything but monotonous, that of high fields is even more lively. Still other arrivals, in dribs and drabs. Christian Stangl arrived this morning with a friend. The Austrian sky-runner was here also last year with the same objective: the ascent of K2 groped speed. He told us that he has not yet decided whether to try Cesen or Abruzzi Spur ... probably the choice depends on which way will be equipped and drawn first. They are expected a couple of Italians, but today nothing yet. Gerlinde and Ralf rose to c2 on Cesen and apparently they are going up to camp 3. This news should be taken with a pinch of salt, pending confirmation by Ralf. I suggest to refer directly to their site. They are only rumours of cooks. However, at least in these parts, the chefs are the most informed about the life of the bc and on the climbs. Frederick and his Texan partner stopped at base in recent days, presumably to give time to the fingertips of Trey's right hand to cure chilblains that he got while dismounting the tent without gloves the last time he climbed the Cesen. Fortunately for him, the Poles have a very good doctor. Koreans climb without the help of their three porters, going up and down from c1 to c2 as lost souls. They do not have a tent in c2 yet, maybe they will install it this afternoon. Finally we come to us: after a night in c1 and one in c2, this morning we went down to the base in time for breakfast (Sergio instead preferred to go directly to c2 and, after a night at 6600 m, back to base ). Adrian this morning showed another of its time: from c2 to bc in less than two and a half hours ... and he had the kindness to wait for me half an hour at ABC ... according to him, he was rather weak after a sleepless night to two.
In fact he and I have not rested well, in my case headaches, and restless legs syndrome in his. In the next tent, Leila slept peacefully her second night in c2. At 6 pm yesterday, in c2, as I was closed in my sleeping bag willing to cut all contact with the world (my headache was already providing me a ultramodern cacophony, style Berio, to be clear), here is that the world knocked on my tent, in the person of the partner of George Dijmarescu.
The Romanian boy, however innocently, gave me a radio at the other end of which there was an angry George Dimitrjescu absolutely wanted to speak from the base camp. At first I did not understand why, but then the Romanian-American told me that his two Sherpas to c2 had indicated that there were 400 m of rope missing to finish equipping from c2 to c3 and, he said, the transport were up our team (Leila told me later that the meter were 150). I then had to instruct our two carriers to provide transport to c2, by the early morning. Which was technically impossible. I tried to support my reasons, and every explanation was a pin planted directly into my brain. Ali, Nisar and Adriano had equipped the way up to camp two and now it was simply impossible, as well as humanly wrong, ask Nisar and Ali and do the carriers with so little time to rest. They are human beings, not machines. The Koreans know it well, at their expense. Finally, as the maximum capacity to formulate an argument (at 6600 m that my brain seemed to explode), I pointed out that for only four hundred meters we could have open all the way up to three together, the next window of good weather. Wasted effort. My clumsy attempts at reasoning did good even more furious George (as if it were him to be 1600 m above). His accusations have become progressively heavier (the kind that Nisar had become the Rais of carriers and commanded for me). Finally, at the end of this stormy liaison, George left me with a pearl of communication: it was a nice fu.. off, repeated and addressed to me. Thank Dijmarescu, because, after all, this is a small, personal record, though not those of which be particularly proud: it was not the first time I was told to get lost, right or wrong, but never to the quota of 6600 m. I just hope that the progression stops here: I would never have to experience the vertigo of the epithet live over the share of death!
It seems that the weather holds out for a couple of days. We decided, with the two porters of Leila, to reach camp 2 tomorrow and equip the route until camp 3. In this way we do not depend on any expedition for the access to c3. Once you reach the three on the Abruzzi (7300 meters), in fact, the fixed ropes are no longer essential for the further progression with the exception of "traverse" at 8300 m. We took heart seeing the lonely tent of Gerlinde and Ralf, who've slept at about 7000 m on the Cesen just below the "true" c3. Today, if all goes well, the strong pair will reach c3 before the wave of bad weather scheduled for the13th. The two have another gear and follow another path, true, but seeing them up there, even with binoculars, gave us the charge to do our best (although we are not coming from Everest). Mountain that reminded me of Mario Merelli. This strong climber has reached the base camp of K2 this morning with Marco Zaffaroni. Merelli did not show to remember me and Adriano Dal Cin, two unknowns in 2004, which nevertheless he shared the ascent of Everest. Me, with a misunderstood independent expedition of four people, Merelli, along with the "big one" Everest-K2. This year, thanks to our work, and that of the porters of Koreans (prior to their untimely demise), the two Sherpas of Dimitrjescu and two Leila's carriers (9 persons in all) the Abruzzi Spur will be fully equipped to c3 within a couple of days. We wish Merelli (but also the Austrian sprinter Stangl) to settle their account with K2. The way is now equipped, we have just to climb.
After the news, I tell you something about Waqar, our precious and skilled cook. He has a toothache. Unfortunately for him, the Polish doctor has no clue of dentistry, and so he opted for traditional treatment of a local curandero here at bc. Concerned for his health, I gave yesterday to the unfortunate cook all my stock of Synflex, but it is only symptomatic medication, that does not solve the root problem. And it seems to be right a tooth decay at the root. To our horror, in the absence of a real dentist, Waqar (who never complained) requested the "treatment" of a healer (duly graduated high school of Witchcraft and Wizardry upper Hunza). A concoction made of gasoline was shoved by force with the help of toothpicks in his upper left molar, in front of our astonished eyes. Perhaps it functions as anaesthetic, I do not know. Certainly not to fire him. Today Waqar rests ... Nisar cooks. These are the "traditional" treatments in the 70% of the world. If you do not like, you can always choose to born in the remaining 30%, the so-called industrialized. Hey you up there! You're a great joker, you know.
Until Wednesday the weather will remain uncertain, so we decided - before reaching the camp three on the Abruzzi - to wait for the improvement expected for Thursday. In fact, today all returned to base: Gerlinde and Ralf veterans by c3 on Cesen, Frederick (down by ski from the c3) and the Poles from c2, always on Cesena. As for the Abruzzi Spur, Leila came down from C2 yesterday along with the Romanian, partner of George. The good news is that after the camp 3 (on both route) the snow seems to be less deep than in 2009. And this is one of the indispensable (but not sufficient) conditions for the summit. Everyone reacts in their own way to these three days of forced detention. Adrian, for his part, told us succinctly: "I'm tired of standing still, I go to Concordia, do not wait me for lunch!” I mess the pc to compile this chronicle, while Sergio acts as ambassador, maintaining relations with the other expeditions (except Dimitrescu, who has not yet cooled down, worse for him, the pressure rises). On the kitchen side, we padded Waqar with antibiotics and painkillers, which seem to have fared better effect than the gasoline concoction swallowed yesterday. Waqar himself had suggested to go down to Hush and then Khaplu to see the first available dentist, 80 km from here. Five, maybe six days round trip through the Gondoghoro. We have encouraged him to do so: we can survive without eating, but health comes first. With great devotion to duty, Waqar this morning appeared visibly improved: he started to sing and made us a pizza! But I do not know if the antibiotic treatment will give decisive and lasting effects, so the "B" plan, ie the temporary abandonment of the expedition for dental care, is still applicable. I dare not to force him, because facing a pass of 5500 m in addition to 160 km round trip to go to a dentist, which I imagine will not mince matters, you can not take once-over-lightly. Wait and see. As to climb K2, one must have patience and accept living with uncertainty and insecurity. In this sense it is a nice reversals compared with the certainty and stability which are peddled as the only acceptable in everyday life. In the delicate gears of the world, harmony and dissonance, creation and destruction, certainty and uncertainty, insecurity and security, ying and yang, love and hate, good and evil, all components are equally indispensable. Alé!
The perceived time does not pass at a constant speed, sometimes flows slow and placid as a large river, sometimes speeds impetuous and relentless between rapids and eddies, toward the end of a cycle. Our time at base camp, until yesterday nebulous and undefined, had a sudden acceleration when two windows of good weather sprang out unexpected. The first will be around July 17, the next, perhaps longer, around July 24. All our plans, along with those of other expeditions, converge on these two dates, real “bottlenecks” beyond which is success or failure. Tomorrow we leave for camp two, then three finishing preparation for the real attempt to the summit, which will be placed between 23 and 25 July. A few days of good weather are not enough to ensure success. There are other factors such as low wind speed at high-altitude and the number of days spent above the base camp. For this reason, as in the film "The Deer Hunter," we will have one stroke, only one attempt. May be that the recent arrived and those who have more time, maybe they will have another chance in August, but not for us, at stake from 7th June and dreaming culatello and Prosecco. Our time is running out, but we will have our chance.
It is amazing the bustle that still animates bc. Yesterday another member of ATP group arrived, a Bulgarian. Today two other people should come from Broad Peak, still groped for the Abruzzi Spur. Then there are those who will arrive only after their attempt to Broad Peak, then no earlier than July 20. It is like a menu "à la carte” in a restaurant: each one chooses his own timing and methods, even though the final selection of ideas and timing - more or less unlikely – will be made by her, "The Big Mountain". Alongside the recent arrivals (but we are still well below the 40 people in total) are emerging human types that make up the ephemeral microcosm that every season gathers at the foot of K2. They are all represented in this corner of the world, because human types are basically the same: only the changing scenery. Thus, we have the express climber seeking speed record, the extreme skiers looking for the thrill of the first descent from the summit, the star, the crowd of collectors (including us), the freeloaders who use the materials carried and placed by others without even saying thanks, the businessmen who take advantage of the difficulties to make trade, losers, climbers without experience who have not understood that they had better stay at home, the extras, figures come just to number, with no intention or ability to climb. All are typify, and if we had been more, as in 2004 jubilee of 50 years, when there were 120 climbers, then new characters would have appeared, such as solitary, thieves, troublemaker and so forth.
Ssshhh... What a silence up here! We are just three of us here at the camp three at 7,200 meters. I tell you from the beginning: yesterday we got c2 from ABC in less than seven hours. Adriano was a forerunner and arrived well before us, and we were with Christian, yet not well acclimatized, who greeted us for the speed (real compliments this time!). It was windy and we struggled to climb. We slept at c2 and then, early this morning, we left for the c3 only with six porters (ours, the two of George and of Leila): no other has gone up with us. Do you guess who came first? No, there is no award because even the cat knows that the first leg put on camp three was that of Adriano. Today's climb was pleasant, with sunshine and no wind at all. The porters have already come down and we are alone here in our tents reading the guestbook’s messages. If the weather is good (as expected) tomorrow we will sleep again at c2. I have not told that we bet - Sergio and me - with His Majesty Optimism Adriano: a dinner at Kabul Restaurant in Islamabad if we go beyond c3. And one believes that to climb K2 one must just fight with altitude, wind, weather, the difficulties of the mountain...
Yesterday night I slept really bad at c3, so today I’m here at c2, while Adriano and Sergio will spend another night at c3. I hope that my decision to go down will not affect the summit, but it was the right thing to do for my safe. Tomorrow we will meet all at base camp.
Here we are again, back from camp three, two thousand and two hundred meters above base camp. It 's our last climb before attempting the summit, which will take place at the first "window" available (apparently around 25-26-27 July). Few days of good weather are not enough to reach the top. A mix of good weather and low wind at 350 mbar (the pressure corresponding to the peak). We'll see. For our part, we have complied with all rules for proper acclimatization in (high) altitude in preparation for an ascent without oxygen. For example, to spend at least 30 days around 5000 meters, to sleep ten nights on the wall in the first three high camps (except the last one, at 8000 m at the shoulder, where we hope to stop only the day of the summit). When I look back, I see the enormity of work done. But the near future is to shake in one's boots, knowing that now there are no more excuses or delaying activities. Before us there is only K2. All this to tell you that we are ready and we're fine! While we were at the three a goat came, a skinny little creature that has given us today for lunch (despite itself) the liver. I didn't kwon that I liked it so much! Other supplies arrived, in our absence: rice, oil and ... fresh mango. I've eaten two mangos, taking advantage of the fact that Adriano does not eat canned or fresh fruit. Oddities of Great! The Poles established the camp three on Cesen and returned today, like us, to the base. A couple of Korean stayed at three last night and returned today. The sherpas of Dimitrjescu led large supply of oxygen to c3 for them and for the Koreans. Christian Stangl has stayed last night at c3 and is now down to base this morning with me and Adriano. We cross Merelli and Zaffaroni this morning as they got to one. All other expeditions, both on the Abruzzi and on Cesen that are still awaiting at the base.
Three days, four, at most a week, but now we know that at the end of the month there will be the attempt to the summit for which we are so trained, committed and acclimated. Tomorrow all expeditions and the singles in possession of a permit for both mountains will arrive from Broad Peak. A growing number of climbers in fact, first attempt Broad Peak, then try also K2 also, given the proximity of base camps and the same logistics. A little 'take two pay one', with the important difference that very few reach both summits. It seem that on July 17 only two people of all the troop of Broad Peak base camp were able to climb the peak. Who wants to gain the K2 base camp has to change immediately, reached or not reached the peak of BP, if they do not want to lose the next major window, perhaps unique of the year on K2. It is a lesson that we learned to our cost in 2007, when veterans from Broad Peak, we have tried also K2. Unfortunately, it was too late. The lesson I learned is that when K2 is involved, one should focus only on K2. However, Fabrizio Zangrilli, Czech Jaroslav Bartos and others will arrive tomorrow from BP, to attempt, perhaps, Cesen. Anxiously awaiting the summit day recommended by the top gurus among meteorologists (modern soothsayers without whose response we do not even get off the house), I regret to report that the 40 years old Bulgarian Peter, aggregate to the ATP expedition, was found dead inside his tent to camp two few day ago. The causes are unknown, it could have been a cerebral aneurysm or a cerebral edema or a cardiovascular collapse (but only guess). He did not have companions and he was climbing alone. For the record, he had just climbed Dhaulagiri. It happened two days ago, but I wanted to wait, before writing, that the family decided on recovery or not the remains. Camp two is located in a inaccessible position, at 6600 m, on a slope of mixed above the tangent altitude of the helicopters, without taking into account the today strong wind (increasing over the coming days) and the proximity of the camp to rock. The institution entitled to recover is the Pakistani Rescue Team. The family has expressed the wish to bury the body on site. The loss of a lone climber had almost no impact on normal operations of the base camp. Everything proceeds as before, missing only a small yellow tent. It was not the crevasses, avalanches, falls or similar, but an accident that hit a person while resting in his sleeping bag. The fact that it happened at 6600 m is part of the unforeseeability and, ultimately, the precariousness of life itself. Each of us is caught and taken by his own hopes, aspirations and desires. Nothing has changed except perhaps an increased awareness. The fact that, although we love and cling to life, it is a very fragile and temporary good, with no other purpose except to live it. That's why we're here.
Today grey sky and full of snow: one of those days seemingly dull and aimless. Yet there was something urgent to do: move Adriano's tent and mine, who were precariously balanced on a pedestal of ice, three feet high. Ablation of ice leads in fact, following several days of sunshine, the dissolution of the surface that decreases visibly, with the result that areas sheltered from the sun, as the tents are becoming higher than surroundings and, at the end, they finished up to find themselves perched on real ice mushrooms. It 's the third time that we move our tents: yesterday we displaced the kitchen tent, and today the personal ones. Hopefully be the last! We work with a shovel and hands to create a background of rocks and gravel plain much as possible, isolated from the underlying ice. Small cracks, chinks in the ice only a few inches wide but very deep furrow the surface and pass directly under the tents, closed by a thin layer of stones. Sometimes it happens that, in the silence of the night, you distinctly hear snaps and vibrations of the glacier moving. Like a living being, the flow of ice below us flows and moves imperceptibly, intermittently, syncopated, unabated. It groans and snaps in its irresistible snail rush to the sea. At the end of work, Gerlinde has served us a tray with a nice steaming mocha; we drank coffee together in front of our provisional masterpiece. After the daily work, made mostly to kill time, it began the procession of porters who downloaded material for three new expeditions.
The first was the EvCNRk2 Committee, composed of a dozen Pakistani guides of the Rescue Team (with an entire yak in tow, not a goat!). Then came the expedition of American Fabrizio Zangrilli, from the Broad Peak, and a small expedition composed by a Swiss, his wife and a South African. The two men of the trio climbed Broad Peak last Saturday. They reported having found a lot of snow from the c3 to the saddle and that, of twenty climbers who attempted the summit that day, only four of them and Iñurrategi reached the summit. Of the three new expeditions just arrived, only the cleaning EvCNRk2 will not rise directly to the summit. The other two have expressed a preference for Cesen, but nothing is decided yet, even the day. This is the moment of patience. Calm and chalk* that soon all will become clear.
* In Italian, when one needs quiet and concentration to accomplish something, we say he needs "calma e gesso". Calm (in its meaning of sang-froid) and chalk. This derives from the habit of chalking the billiard stick when considering a particularly difficult shot.
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